|Reference||151-TD-41-GF-AB. Limited Edition of 50 pieces|
|Case||Black DLC Titanium with brushed, micro blasted and polished finishes. 51mm|
|Dial||Unstructured fluid hours, black hour dial, grey anthracite indices and grey numerals|
|Crystal||Scratch resistant sapphire|
|Waterproofness||Waterproof to 100m / 328 ft|
|Power Reserve||Approximately 65 hours|
|Functions||Retrograde green hours, seconds (left dial), power reserve (right eye)|
|Bracelet||Black alligator leather, black DLC titanium deployment clasp.|
HYT sold its first watch six years ago with a founding principle – to use the arch enemy of watch movements, liquid, to tell the time. In that time, production has grown to around 420 watches a year, with the majority sold before they have even been made. With so many new ‘independent’ watch companies in the market now, as well as those resurrecting names of the past it has been amazing to not only see a new start up doing something genuinely ground-breaking, but succeeding at it.
To start, a modified, specialist movement has been created to both power and take into account positionally, two bellows that in this piece create the teeth / mouth of the skull. The left is full of green liquid, the right of clear. The manually wound movement then provides the power to push the green liquid out of the left bellow and around the shape of the skull from 6 o’clock, for 12 hours. As it reaches the 6 o’clock position, the movement prepares for something rather unique; this watch is actually a retrograde, meaning when it hits the six position, the green liquid then reverses all the way back round the skull to reach its starting point once again. With mesmerising effect.
To add to the drama on the face, the eyes are also functional; the left being seconds and the right the power reserve. The sum of all this creates a mechanical watch that genuinely comes to life. It’s ingenious.
So what many might see as a ‘fun’ watch is actually extremely serious technologically. To add to this, top quality materials are used – DLC coated titanium for both the case and the deployment clasp. It’s a massive watch, at 51mm, but the use of these materials makes it light and extremely wearable. Coupled with one of the most attractive pearlescent alligator straps I’ve seen, there is no way you will not be noticed wearing an HYT Skull.
You may be looking at the photos and wondering, ‘isn’t there something missing?… Where is the minutes indicator?’ Well, the Skull does not actually have one. The ethos behind this HYT piece is not only that time is fluid but, moreover, one should live by the adage ‘carpe diem’… In essence, what does it really matter if the time is not precise? There are more important things in life and you should seize the moment, whenever that moment is. Whether you buy into such romance is up to you, but it certainly makes for an uncluttered dial and a serious horological statement from its wearer.
Clearly at this size, this watch is not for the faint hearted. Nor is it for anyone without the forearms to pull it off. It is a casual watch to its core so, whilst I can never say don’t wear it with a suit, my advice would be to guard against it. Wear it with a pair of jeans and a t shirt however and it’s one of those rare, killer pieces.
As a brand HYT watches and, specifically, the Skull, are not only innovative but also thought provoking. I have not met anyone who, if not having heard of HYT previously, are nothing but genuinely amazed at how it works. That’s not to say the Skull is not a divisive watch, its size and aggressive looks are not for everyone, but no one can deny its story is one full of character and the technology lying within it genuinely revolutionary.
The HYT Skull Green Eye is a limited edition of 50 with an RRP of £65,000. It is currently going for £50 – £55,000 on the secondary market.